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Croydon
Bathroom Renovations

Bathroom tiling in Croydon

Walls, floors and showers, from metro tiles to large-format porcelain. Prepared properly, waterproofed where it’s wet and set out so the cuts land where nobody looks.

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Drawing of a bathroom being tiled: a centre line set out on the wall, tiles bedded on notched adhesive over backer board, trims on the edges and the level being checked12345
  1. 1Centre line set out first
  2. 2Level checked every row
  3. 3Notched adhesive bed
  4. 4Trims on every edge
  5. 5Large-format porcelain
A shower room tiled in white square tiles with dark grout
Example style: square tiles with contrasting grout.

Good tiling is decided before the first tile goes on

The difference between a bathroom that looks expensive and one that doesn’t is rarely the tile. It’s whether the grout lines run true, the cuts are even and the edges are finished cleanly.

We plan the layout on the wall first, then tile it.

  • Walls checked for flat and plumb, and fixed if they aren’t
  • Centre lines found so cut tiles are even on both sides
  • Tile lines lined up with the window, niche and shower valve
  • Proper trims on external corners, no exposed tile edges

Which tile, where?

All of these work in a bathroom. What changes is how they look, how much preparation they need and how easy they are to keep clean.

  • Metro and brick tiles

    Classic in a Victorian or Edwardian house. Bevelled or flat, laid in brick bond, herringbone or stacked. Lots of grout lines, so the grout colour matters.

  • Large-format porcelain

    Fewer grout lines and a calm, modern look. Heavy tiles need flat walls and the right adhesive, which is where preparation earns its keep.

  • Mosaic

    Ideal for wet room floors, because small tiles follow the fall to the drain. Also good for niches and feature strips.

  • Feature walls

    Pattern or colour on one wall, plain tiles elsewhere. A good way to get a big look from a small amount of an expensive tile.

Ceramic or porcelain?

Both are fine in a bathroom. The difference is mostly about floors and size.

Best on
Ceramic:Walls
Porcelain:Floors and walls
Water absorption
Ceramic:Higher, glazed face is waterproof
Porcelain:Very low, right through
Sizes
Ceramic:Small to medium
Porcelain:Up to very large format
Cutting
Ceramic:Easier
Porcelain:Harder, needs the right tools

What our tiling includes

  • Removing old tiles
  • Backer board in wet areas
  • Tanking membrane
  • Levelling and priming
  • Setting out and tiling
  • Trims on every edge
  • Grouting
  • Sanitary silicone

Priced separately if you need it

  • Underfloor heating under the tiles
  • Replacing floorboards with ply
  • Natural stone sealing

Questions people ask

Can you tile over my old tiles?

We’d rarely recommend it. It adds weight, hides whatever is behind the old tiles, and makes edges and trims awkward. Taking them off and starting from a sound, flat wall gives a better and longer-lasting job.

How many tiles should I buy?

If you’re buying your own, send us the room measurements and the tile size and we’ll give you quantities. As a rule, allow around 10% extra for cuts and breakages, more for a diagonal or herringbone pattern, and buy from one batch so the shade matches.

Do you tile shower walls straight onto plasterboard?

Not in a shower. Wet areas get cement backer board and a tanking membrane, so water that gets through the grout can’t reach the wall behind.

Which grout colour should I choose?

A grout close to the tile colour hides lines and looks calm. A contrasting grout shows off the pattern of metro tiles but also shows every imperfection, so it needs careful setting out. In hard water areas, mid-greys hide limescale better than bright white.

Need a bathroom retiled?

Tell us the size of the room and which walls need tiling, and send a photo. We’ll come back with a price.

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